The world of megabrands: You can never go wrong with 2 knit stitches.
Ideally the product is its best advertising. Ideally it is also distinctive. For our present example it could not have worked out any better in terms of branding. Fashion and cult have found a common denominator: Missoni, “who raised simple knitting to a form of art...“ *)A world brand rooted in family tradition? Yes, indeed! Rosita Jelmini and Ottavio Missoni met in 1948 at the Olympic Games in London – back then, she studied modern languages and sat in the audience, while he was an ambitious athlete at Wembley Stadium, where he won the 400m obstacle race for his team. She comes from a family that collaborated with the Torranis in the textile industry, producing yarns, embroidered fabrics and silk scarves. One year prior, he had joined forces with his friend Giorgio Oberweger in a small workshop, designing and manufacturing the track suits for the Italian Olympic team.
It is not much of a surprise that upon getting married, Rosita and Ottavio set up a small knitwear workshop in the basement of their new home in Gallarate. Rumour has it, in the beginnings they only had two machines and were only able to knit cross stripes. Everyone has to start out small….
Colours like music
The Missonis brought fresh colour into the post-war black-and-white landscape. They combined dyed yarn in a vibrant, elegant and harmonious style – often featuring the characteristic stripe pattern – longitudinal, cross, diagonal, zigzag and later even flaming stripes. Just like famous designers they did not change their style each season, but rather developed it further. The signature has remained the same. This was often the only way, sometimes chosen intentionally, sometimes unintentionally, to successfully position the label. Continuity creates community and helps clients to stay true to themselves.
What is still surprising for many is that this lesson was learned with knitted goods – and it has prevailed. "Who is still in the mood for knitwear?" This question has often come up. "Everyone! But only by Missoni!"
Scandals and Academy Award for fashion
1967, Florence: The fashion show at the Palazzo Pitti is toppled by scandal: Outrage, outcry, models are sent away, the Missonis will not be invited for the next show. What happened? The bras did either not match the light lamé blouses or they would have ruined the fabric of the clothing – at any rate, Rosita told her models to take off their bras and sent them out on the stage with nothing under the knits. However, she forgot to consider that the fabric would become transparent under the reflector lights. The opinions ranged from "frivolity" to "refreshingly original". Pioneer, trendsetter? The public opinion was split. However, simultaneously with the next fashion show at the Pitti, Yves Saint Laurent introduced his nude look in Paris.
Nonetheless, recognition and honour did not fail to appear. In 1973, the Missonis received the "Neiman Marcus Award", the Academy Award of the fashion industry. Or – to list one among many other awards: the International Design Award in 1990 conferred by the Fashion Group International, a group comprising 600 American fashion journalists.
Practicing the Missoni lifestyle
Missoni umbrellas, shoes, handbags, wallpaper, drapes and perfume? Yes, all that and much more! The fashion icon of the 1960s and 70s has successfully entered a new millennium. "Missoni Home" is the name of a label that has transported the Missoni look since beginning of the 1980s into homes – and also to numerous art exhibitions – running the gamut from carpets and drapes to upholstered furniture, lamp shades and vases: Ready to take the plunge into the positive feel of the Missoni world. Not to mention the opening of three Missoni hotels slated for 2007 and 2008. In Kuwait City, Edinburgh and Dubai well-heeled guests will be able to savour the fruits of the collaboration between the fashion label and Rezidor SAS Hospitality. Meanwhile, Missoni sales have already expanded to Japan, Hong Kong and South Korea.
In line with Missoni’s style: Missoni Sport
This helped to introduce recurrent colourful knit stitches made in Italy to 20-year-olds. The second line Missoni Sport, for ten years spearheaded by Luca, Rosita and Ottavio’s second oldest son, was developed precisely for this group. This offers everything for a young and hip audience, less expensive but still sporting exclusivity: ranging from jeans and t-shirts to jumpers, dresses to shoes. Cult fashion made affordable.
This means of course: No worries – the successful combination of tradition and innovation, fashion and art will remain trendy even in the near future. After all, the Missonis know exactly what authentic brand values constitute – this hope is also shared by their fans – true to their style….
Anna Voltren
*) Bernardine Morris in the New York Times in 1979
